Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Wild Hogs

Ross
Another good day in the saddle. Although the saddle wasn't always kind to it's contact point.
We started from Bao Lac on Highway 3 and our first significant spell of two lane sealed highway in good order with lots of long sweeping curves. So easy until the centre line eventually disappeared, the while big trucks carrying full size containers didn't. We eventually came across one completely blocking the road and at a very awkward angle. After a verge crawl around the side we cam across a limping lass picking up her scooter. Long truck skid marks told more of the story. A gathering crowd and mounting traffic queues meant we rode on.


We turned of the highway at the small town of Quang Uyen and continued on incredibly rough roads to the border, our passage being periodically delayed by 24 wheelers loaded with export goods and grinding at a walking pace through the giant potholes. Just before the border we stopped at the local caves – which were world class limestone. Large cathedral spaces and smaller passages, giant wedding cake structures and a huge variety of stalactites and mites. Part way through the cave a group of school children caught us up and asked for mementos of NZ. We gave them some $1 and $2 coins and they became our close friends. Their teacher was an immaculately dressed young woman in a white blouse and high heels, which must have been a real challenge on the uneven cave floor. We felt really scruffy in our dust covered riding gear, so were astounded when they got back to the car park and all climbed onto motor scooters (3 to a bike).

From the cave it was 3 kms to the border and the biggest waterfalls in Vietnam. Well worth the considerable effort to visit and I'm hopeful that the photos of the falls across the paddy fields and from the bamboo raft will illustrate just how good. A swim under the falls by Len and I kept the locals amused and lowered our temperature considerably as it was probably about 36 degrees..

A 75km ride back to the guest house completed the day. This started on wonderful, sealed winding roads through paddy fields set amongst limestone towers. After riding through a tunnel cave things started to degenerate as we got back onto border trucking routes through the steep hills. The gathering storm sucked up the light, making it hard to see the potholes and even approaching bikes. We have learnt to ride big holes in the road without much flinching but the thought of riding greasy roads in near dark was not appealing, so it was with some relief we arrived back in town at 5:40 – long before normal dark, but in deep gloom. As we rode into the homestay the heavens opened.

Dinner was superb – spring roles, tofu balls, beetel leaf wraps, bean sprout beef and other dishes. Our host produced a bottle of rice whiskey which was drunk in numerous shot toasts – complete with slamming glass down. It's surprising I can continue with this blog.

I had wanted to talk about the many interesting things we see on the road – but it will need to wait – an interesting debate is running on NZ ecconomic policy – although it may be slightly fueled with Chivas Regal (we felt we needed to add a New Zealand flavour by proposing shot toasts with whisky and calls of “Kia Kaha”).

Mark

Thanks to the roads impacting the computer it was difficult to do a blog for yesterday, so we left this to Ross and went to bed, but we are now managing on a quarter screen. As Ross commented, yesterday was a focus on riding and staying on the bikes on roads which were extreme – I do not think back home anyone would consider them roads. Based on years of experience Ross commented that in riding one should not focus on the immediate potholes in front but have a broad view of what is ahead. Having tried to follow this I have decided that a focus on the immediate is important to minimise impact on ones body.

I have come to dislike the local buses if you ever come to Vietnam avoid the local buses in the North, this will dramatically increase your chances of a long life. The buses go up and down the hills at full throttle. In a small village we stopped for drinks and outside the drinks stop a local bus was being cleaned – hosed out on the inside. Commenting on this the response was that this was probably required to get rid of the vomit from the inside of the bus.

As Ross has commented today a great trip to see the magniciant caves – hopefully our photos will work and you will be able to get some feel for what we saw. The same applies to the water fall where Ross and Len decided to go for a swim – again hopefully the photos will work.


One of the impressions of Vietnam is the positive nature of the people and no matter how remote the village you will still find power and a good infrastructure. Power and Broadband everywhere – it seems that a centrally controlled government can achieve more than some other forms of government.

Any way to sum up 'Arses are sore but spirits are positive'

Len
Also just a short note from me to add to yesterday's commentary on riding styles. Ross and Mark had a different description of my riding. 'Rides it like its hired and someone else is paying for the petrol.' Humphf! Chung's comment was 'its usually the most competent rider who falls'. A much more perceptive comment I thought – and from a trained professional. However my 'friends' proceeded to burst my bubble by pointing out the ambiguity in Chung's comment. Bubble burst again.
Finally, have decided that T-shirt lady is an inadequate name for one I hold in such fond regard. Until I find out her real name I've decided I'll call her Lilly.

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